Around the World – Gastrologik*, Stockholm, Sweden (February 2018)

Another business trip to Sweden, so another opportunity to seek out Nordic cuisine in Stockholm!

The first restaurant I had settled for was Gastrologik, the Michelin-starred restaurant headed by chefs Anton Bjuhr and Jacob Holmström, who have been working in stellar Parisian restaurants like L’Astrance***, Pierre Gagnaire***, Stockholm’s Mathias Dahlgren*, and Oslo’s – now defunct – Bagatelle* among others.

Located in Östermalm, just a couple of streets outside the city center, next to the Armée museum, I almost missed it as all the curtains of the corner building were closed and only a small plaque indicated the restaurant’s location. Inside, the hallway split the dining hall in two sections, with an estimated capacity of 25-30 diners altogether, with an open kitchen in the back. The setting was definitely Nordic design: modern, light, harmonious earth tones, loads of wood, glass and ceramics (later it was confirmed that everything in the restaurant was actually Swedish design). With the closed curtains they want to make dining at Gastrologik an immersive experience, without distractions from passing cars and pedestrians.

I was seated on a (surprisingly comfortable) bench that ran along the entire corner wall and as such had a nice view on the action in the kitchen and the adjacent serving station.

The card on the table was (intentionally) the only indication given of tonight’s menu: nothing regarding the size of the menu and the courses that would be served. Just the prices of the menu (SEK 1.595 / EUR 160 / USD 195) and optional beverage pairing (SEK 1050 / EUR 105 / USD 130), and on the back a brief explanation from the chefs on what is generally in season and what consequently they’d also be using last year’s (preserved) produce.

Cards with the actual menu of the day (it turned out to be a 10-course menu excluding a wide array of small nibbles before, during and after and 6 beverage pairings) will be included at the end of the evening inserted in a book highlighting their philosophy that great locally sourced seasonal and organic produce is the cornerstone of this restaurant. As a true extension of Nordic fine dining cuisine, the chefs work closely with a network of suppliers who are showcased in this book. Jacob and Anton proclaim that they put as much effort into finding, growing and foraging great ingredients, as they put into cooking them. The produce that the suppliers think is best at any time will dictate what will be on the menu, so the actual menu can even change overnight.

Overall ambitious and delightful cooking with often unique and intense flavors, not crowded by using too many elements. Combined with a seamless and friendly service and interesting beverage pairings, a visit to Gastrologik is a stand-out experience. At present a one-Michelin-star restaurant, but in my experience and in comparison to the other Nordic cuisine restaurants I visited the past year, Kokkeriet*, Oaxen Krog**, Geranium*** and Volt*, a second Michelin star for Gastrologik would in my option be fully deserved.


 

To chase the cold away (it was -6C / 21F outside), I was immediately welcomed with a delicious cup of heart-warming Forest Broth, infused with mushrooms, pine and lingonberries.

Next up were some snacks for which I chose to sample an IPA from Stockholm Brewing (SEK 95 / EUR 9,50 / USD 11,50).

Clockwise:

  • Quail Egg with soy and black garlic
  • Black Pear, Reindeer jerky and black currants
  • Crispy Kale with Rakfisk (salted and fermented arctic char) and ramson cream
  • Tartelette with Chicken liver paté, Apple and Meringue
fullsizeoutput_4b2e
Homemade Knäckebröd made from Warbrokvarn spelt with hand churned butter from Kittleberget

Then the actual menu started:

fullsizeoutput_4b2f
Tartare of Raw Shrips from Smögen with angelica seeds, daikon and a broth from unripe summer tomatoes and lovage
fullsizeoutput_4b30
Blackened Langoustine from Ålesund with a cream made with the langoustine heads and a fennel salad. Accompanied by a 2015 Riesling x Sylvaner by Domaine de Beudon, Valais, Switzerland
fullsizeoutput_4b31
Kalix vendance roe with underneath lactic potatoes, poached quail egg, red onions and browned butter, a playful take on a very classic Swedish dish. This course was paired with a 2015 Xistu Cru by Luis Seabra, Douro, Portugal
fullsizeoutput_4b32
Squid from Kattegat with swede, flowering quince and mackerel garum (fish paste) also paired with the 2015 Xistu Cru by Luis Seabra, Douro, Portugal
fullsizeoutput_4b34
From the same Warbrokvarn spelt, this time a sourdough loaf with cold smoked Kittleberget butter to accompanying the next grilled fish and game dishes

Tableside portioning of the Arctic char which was grilled with pine in a birch bark and served with lactic fermented carrots and spruce pesto. This fantastic dish which was accompanied by a 2016 Saint-Joseph Lyseras Blanc by Yves Cuilleron, Rhône, France

fullsizeoutput_4b3c
Grilled, glazed celeriac with last summer’s chanterelle mushrooms and sloes stones and a buttermilk and lovage foam

Both the celeriac and quail dishes were accompanied by a 2013 Il Corzano (Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend) by Corzano e Paterno, Tuscany, Italy.

fullsizeoutput_4b3f
Quail from Vidby Norrby with grilled garlic, unripe currants and quail jus

As an extra nibble, there was a spicy and herbal snack:

fullsizeoutput_4b40
Quail leg, glazed with roasted chicken garum, dried black currants and chive flowers

On to the sweet section of the menu:

Ingrid Marie apple (frozen, dried, fermented and fresh) with juniper berries and a shot glass of (juniper heavy) Härno’s Härno Gin which was mixed with cucumber water and therefore served very well as a palate cleanser after the quail leg.

The next 2 desserts were accompanied by Malvasia Old Reserve 10-year-old by Barbeito, Madeira, Portugal

fullsizeoutput_4b44
Red beets marmalade with Red Algae ice cream and Goat’s milk

This was definitely the most “out there” dish of the evening. Even after the meal, I wasn’t 100% sure I really loved it, but it was a daring combination of sweet, saline and sour flavors nonetheless.

fullsizeoutput_4b46
Rye Sourdough with frozen Carrots and Beer
fullsizeoutput_4b47
To go with my Brazilian Fazenda Chapada espresso by Lilla Kaffeerosteriet (SEK 40 / EUR 4), there was a choice of 5 different homemade liqueurs (SEK 95 / EUR 9,50) that were vodka based but infused with fruits and/or other botanicals. My choice was the one that had Aquavit botanicals (caraway, coriander, angelica and lemon peel) and there were three dessert snacks: Celeriac tart, “Ballerinakex” and Kalvdans and Cloudberries

Kalvdans is a classic Scandinavian dessert stemming from the 17th century. It is made from unpasteurized colostrum milk, the first milk produced by a cow after giving birth. Mixed with water and carefully heated, the high levels of protein in milk makes it coagulate and set; thus giving the dessert the jiggly pudding-like consistency and the literal origin of the name: “calf dance”.

Even paying the bill was cause for a final little snack: a grown-up’s beehive candy. The chilling cold of the night and flurry of snowflakes made the walk back to the hotel a fitting end of a memorable dinner.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

w

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.